What in the heck can I do to repair the large baggage door? It seems to be curling out at the top and bottom. It has corrosion coming through the skin. It leaks like a sieve.
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Technical Editor:
I have attempted several baggage door repairs, with only marginal success. Without the hot-bonding capability in a properly shaped mold, it is unlikely that a new skin could hold the correct shape, unless the inner shell does indeed already have the correct shape. You can indeed try to order a new door from Beech; but the most recent price I heard of was $3,700-plus. If we ever have to try another repair at KLUX, below are all of the steps which we will take.
NOTE 1 – The same bonding steps apply to the small baggage door used on the 19/23 series.
NOTE 2 – I always recommend the installation of a new window, if the baggage door is being split, unless the existing window is literally like new. The cost of the small window is miniscule in light of the labor involved in splitting the skin from the shell (to replace it later). This is also the time to select your choice of tinted acrylic, if you ever plan to replace the rest of the windows.
LARGE BAGGAGE DOOR REPAIR – SIERRA AND DUCHESS
1. Separate the old skin from the shell, and thoroughly clean the bonding surfaces of the shell. Make certain that there is no remaining water in the shell; NONE AT ALL! This may mean placing the shell foam-side up (or vertical) near a mild radiant heat source, to dry it out. This may take literally days; but do not proceed until any moisture is 100% gone.
2. Make a new skin, complete with window and door latch cut-outs. The Beech P/N for the skin is 169-430015-33; but there have not been any in the parts system for many years. As you may already know, you have to make your own out of 2024-T3 Alclad sheet (available from Aircraft Spruce). Just measure the thickness of the old skin, and get the same or next-thickest gauge.
3. Clamp the new skin to the shell, while making sure that the shell has the correct curvature for the fuselage. Here is where the process will have to diverge from the original bonded-only construction. Old doors will almost always have screws or rivets around the perimeter on the lower left corner, due to this area becoming dis-bonded over the years. The top aft corner also often shows the same trend. My intent is to use AN426A non-structural (soft) flush rivets. You must not use structural AD rivets, or they will split the plastic shell when being set. The new skin will have to be countersunk or dimpled. If dimpled, the shell will need to have the mating hole surface countersunk (to accept the dimple). Since the purpose of the rivets is non-structural, it seems better to retain the plastic shell thickness and countersink the skin, despite the thin metal. Once the door refinishing work is completed, properly installed flush rivets will not even be visible. Thin shop heads will not interfere with seal installation or function. In fact, a very slight countersink in the plastic shell hole, on the inboard side, will allow the soft rivet to expand into the countersink. This will increase the holding strength while maintaining a very thin shop head. You might also wish to examine the bottom edge of the shell. If it appears feasible with the existing foam, it might be worth drilling a few drain holes along that bottom edge, to act as long-term water drains. There should never be liquid water accumulating inside the door; but we have found two of them literally full of water.
4. Once all of the rivet holes have been made, bond a new window to the new skin, using the published window installation instructions and materials. Even if you are using the B1/2 versus B2 adhesive sealant, the faster cure of the B1/2 primarily shortens working time. You really need to let the window bond set up for at least two full days. If you use B2, it will need to cure for at least four full days. Considering all the work and money that is at risk, don’t try to start handling the new skin until the new window is fully bonded. Make sure that the new skin has been completely Alodyned; and has been heavily primed on the inside as well, using a premium 2-part epoxy primer.
5. Have everything ready to proceed; properly sized rivets, squeezer, adhesive, adhesive spreader and remover, Clecos and Cleco pliers. Consider brushing (not spraying) some Corrosion X or ACF50 on the foam surface, if you are certain you can keep it away from the bonding surfaces. If you use this material, you’ll need to make sure that the door stays flat until curing is complete. Make sure that the shell is being held in the proper shape, and that the skin matches that shape. If you have to ‘force’ either one to make them match the frame opening, or each other, they WILL NOT wind up with the proper shape. You only get one shot on this, so make it count!
6. Mate the new skin with the old shell for a final trial fit. If all looks well, tape the perimeter of the skin and the shell, for easier clean-up. Mix the sealant and apply it as needed. Cleco the skin to the shell, and install the rivets. Be sure to immediately clean any adhesive from the Clecos, or they will be ruined. Clean up any excess sealant while it is still soft. When it reaches the ‘cheese’ stage, you can peel off the tape.
6. Allow at least three days for the final cure. Then install the new door seal, and reinstall the door.