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Thread: BAC-Mail Digest, Vol 5, Issue 3

  1. #1

    BAC-Mail Digest, Vol 5, Issue 3

    Greg MacPherson,

    I hope that I am sending this correctly. As a new member I enjoy reading
    what other people are doing to and running into with their aircraft.

    I used Vantage plane plastics rubber door seals for replacement of all three
    doors of my Sierra. The part number is kx-2123bt and cost about $2.00 a
    foot. At 40 lineal feet with the discount from plane plastics the total for
    material was 86.89 with shipping to the west coast. The material is 3/4"
    quarter round and hollow. It comes with a peal off back and I didn't
    require any adhesives. I installed the material in one direction on the
    front doors and reversed the material on the baggage door. It took about 2
    weeks to settle down, but my doors all close nicely and I have no leaks.
    When I started the installation there were 2 different kinds of seals on the
    doors, and a whole lot of adhesive. The first thing I did was to remove the
    hold open at the bottom of the front doors. This allowed the door to open
    180 degrees and allowed me to stand in front of the wing to do the work. I
    was afraid to use any solvent on the door frames, whick appeared to be
    fiberglass. So I used a palm sander, Makita, and 3M's fast cut sandpaper,
    180 grit. I took my time and was careful not to damage the fiberglass. It
    took about 2 hours per door to get all the adhesive off. Since I was
    redoing the interior I painted the edge of the doors so that the exposed
    edges would match the new interior. I cut several 1 inch sections of the
    door seal and applied them (after the paint had dried) to various parts of
    each door to see what was the best possible position for the new seal. I
    also noticed that the bottom of the doors are pitched to the front of the
    aircraft, and when I removed the old seals the bottom seals were full of
    water. When I installed the new seals I positioned the butt joint at the
    bottom of the door as close to the front of the aircraft as possible. That
    way if any water did get into the seal it would drain out.

    I did have one problem with the pilot side door. The small access window
    became stuck due to the warpage of the door because of the new seals. I
    forced the window open and cracked the glass. If you absolutely cannot wait
    the 2 weaks for the new seals to settle down, I recommend that you do the
    work with the window open, mark the area where the window is binding and
    carefully remove some of the material with a dremel tool.

    As I said before, the seals took about to weaks to compress and settledown.
    The material also is FAA approved. I do have about 2 feet for material left
    over and will send it or part of it to you. Good luck and I hope this helps
    and makes it to you.

    Rick Spann N9363S
    1975 Sierra
    -----Original Message-----
    From: bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org
    [mailto:bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org] On Behalf Of
    bac-mail-request@beechaeroclub.org
    Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 12:48 PM
    To: bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org
    Subject: BAC-Mail Digest, Vol 5, Issue 3

    Send BAC-Mail mailing list submissions to
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    Today's Topics:

    1. Beech (Auto-Valve Corp) Flush Drain Valve Photos (Mike Rellihan)
    2. Re: Power Tow/Tug for Sundowner (Jimmie and Mary Mc)
    3. Re: Power Tow/Tug for Sundowner (Barry Burke Jr.)
    4. Re: [musketeermail] Door seals, BAC mail (James Bruce)
    5. RE: Power Tow/Tug for Sundowner (Mike Rellihan)
    6. Re: Re: [musketeermail] Door seals, BAC mail (Tim Flight)
    7. Door seals, Sierra (Greg MacPherson)
    8. Breakfast (Brian & Bertha Foote)
    9. Intercom (James Bruce)
    10. Re: [musketeermail] RE: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for
    Sundowner (Ann Kirby)
    11. RE: [musketeermail] RE: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for
    Sundowner (Mike Hagans)
    12. RE: [musketeermail] RE: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for
    Sundowner (WILLIS COOKE)


    ----------------------------------------------------------------------

    Message: 1
    Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 17:42:54 -0500
    From: "Mike Rellihan" <mike@rellihan.com>
    Subject: [BAC-Mail] Beech (Auto-Valve Corp) Flush Drain Valve Photos
    To: "'BAC Mail'" <bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org>,
    <musketeermail@yahoogroups.com>
    Message-ID: <200511111733291.SM00253@mikesnewpc>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

    I'm trying to wrap up the instruction article on repairing the post-type and
    flush-type original-equipment wing drain valves. I have all the photos I
    need, with the exception of a disassembled Beech flush drain valve. Can
    anyone help me out? If someone has an old one, I would be happy to repair
    it in exchange for the opportunity to photograph it. I just don't have an
    old one here in Laurens.

    Once I publish the article, I will have complete drain valve repair kits
    available. The remaining rings that I need are on the way. The kits will
    include all the rings needed for both types of valves, so that you won't get
    halfway through a job and discover that you need a different ring.

    Can anyone help me out with photos or a flush valve? I have everything I
    need for the post-type valve, and for the F75 Saf-Air flush valve.

    ------------------------------

    Message: 2
    Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 17:45:21 -0600
    From: Jimmie and Mary Mc <hoca@adelphia.net>
    Subject: Re: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for Sundowner
    To: MrLucky353@aol.com, bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org
    Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20051111174521.00bc9ad0@mail.adelphia .net>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

    I use an ele three wheel Cushman with a ball hitch on each end. It works
    great. I welded a tow bar years ago to pull the mouse with my truck to
    refueling so I did not have to start the engine and taxi. Jimmie

    At 10:33 PM 11/10/2005 EST, MrLucky353@aol.com wrote:
    Hi guys, anyone have any experience with using a battery operated power
    tow/tug to move their Sundowner in and out of a hanger?
    Recommendations will be appreciated.
    Thanks.
    Steve


    ------------------------------

    Message: 3
    Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 20:49:22 -0500
    From: "Barry Burke Jr." <barry@bburke.com>
    Subject: Re: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for Sundowner
    To: bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org
    Message-ID:
    <5.2.1.1.0.20051111204841.00c250c0@netmail.regi steredsite.com>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

    At 05:45 PM 11/11/2005 -0600, Jimmie and Mary Mc wrote:
    >I use an ele three wheel Cushman with a ball hitch on each end. It
    >works great. I welded a tow bar years ago to pull the mouse with my
    >truck to refueling so I did not have to start the engine and taxi.


    Got a picture?

    ==================================
    Barry Burke Jr. - Middletown, CT USA
    http://www.bburke.com
    ---------------------------------------------------
    Insert your choice of lame quote here
    ==================================



    ------------------------------

    Message: 4
    Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 19:07:36 -0800 (PST)
    From: James Bruce <j_w_bruce@yahoo.com>
    Subject: [BAC-Mail] Re: [musketeermail] Door seals, BAC mail
    To: gmacp1949 <gmacp@att.net>, bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org
    Message-ID: <20051112030736.15364.qmail@web30011.mail.mud.y ahoo.com>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

    Greg, have you signed up for BAC mail? if you have, I think you would
    receive a password and some instuuctions to follow initially. Once you
    complete this step, it is as simple as addressing your email to
    bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org

    Tim Flight or anyone else with some good ideas here, help us out.

    Thanks

    Jay

    --- gmacp1949 <gmacp@att.net> wrote:

    > We have received new door seals for our 1978 Sierra (main doors
    > only... baggage door seal too expensive). Any pointers on removing the
    > old seals, solvent or scraping, what type of adhesive to use, and
    > installation techniques would be appreciated. 3M Door Deal Adhesive
    > from an autoparts store has been suggested.
    >
    > Also, as a member of BAC I am having trouble figuring out how to post
    > this sort of message on BAC mail. Any help would be appreciated. Can't
    > find anything on the website.
    >
    > Thanks.
    >
    > Greg MacPherson, N18996
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >





    __________________________________
    Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com

    ------------------------------

    Message: 5
    Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 22:47:58 -0500
    From: "Mike Rellihan" <rellihan@rellihan.com>
    Subject: RE: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for Sundowner
    To: "'Jimmie and Mary Mc'" <hoca@adelphia.net>, <MrLucky353@aol.com>,
    <bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org>, <musketeermail@yahoogroups.com>
    Message-ID: <20051111223842.SM00461@mikesnewpc>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

    I'm sure that those using the ride-on powered equipment to move their plane
    are aware of this. I'm just mentioning it for those who are considering
    such uses for their lawn tractor, golf cart, etc.

    You should have the travel limit markings on your nose gear. Beech hasn't
    sold the decals in years, but 1/4" wide red pinstripe tape from an auto
    parts works fine. Ideally, you get the nose gear off the ground. Put one
    stripe in the center of the upper fixed trunnion. Move the gear by hand to
    the left and right limits. Put a left and right stripe on the face of the
    main housing so it aligns with the center stripe just short of the limit.

    If you hit the limit while using a ride-on power unit, if you are lucky the
    steering rod end will break at the threads (the weak link). If you are
    unlucky, the top collar casting will crack, without your knowledge. This
    can lead to the nose gear housing and fork falling free of the upper housing
    on some future liftoff. Depending on circumstances, you won't know about
    that either, for a while. This isn't speculation; it has happened.

    The various powered tow bars are far less risky, as you can usually feel the
    limit when it is hit. You still should not use that as the travel stop, as
    it will bend the rod end over time. I'm not too bashful to mention that I
    one broke a rod end on my Sierra, using a golf cart; zigged when I should
    have zagged. I knew it as soon as I did it, and inspected everything before
    replacing the rod end. Murphy gets us all, at one time or another.


    -----Original Message-----
    From: bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org
    [mailto:bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org] On Behalf Of Jimmie and Mary Mc
    Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 6:45 PM
    To: MrLucky353@aol.com; bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org
    Subject: Re: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for Sundowner

    I use an ele three wheel Cushman with a ball hitch on each end. It works
    great. I welded a tow bar years ago to pull the mouse with my truck to
    refueling so I did not have to start the engine and taxi. Jimmie

    At 10:33 PM 11/10/2005 EST, MrLucky353@aol.com wrote:
    Hi guys, anyone have any experience with using a battery operated power
    tow/tug to move their Sundowner in and out of a hanger?
    Recommendations will be appreciated.
    Thanks.
    Steve



    ------------------------------

    Message: 6
    Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 22:35:13 -0500
    From: Tim Flight <tflight@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: [BAC-Mail] Re: [musketeermail] Door seals, BAC mail
    To: BAC Mail <bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org>
    Message-ID: <69D438B6-1016-43C3-A2B6-F9608F64EE46@gmail.com>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed

    > Also, as a member of BAC I am having trouble figuring out how to post
    > this sort of message on BAC mail. Any help would be appreciated.
    > Can't find anything on the website.


    There are three ways to find the information from the BAC homepage.
    Above the rotating member photo is a link that says 'Have you joined
    BAC-Mail yet?'. You can also go to the 'BAC Info' menu near the top
    of the page and select 'BAC Mail Information'. There are also some
    entries about it in the Website category of the FAQs. You can find
    those by typing 'bac-mail' into the search box at the top right of
    the website.

    - Tim

    ------------------------------

    Message: 7
    Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 23:17:34 -0500
    From: "Greg MacPherson" <gmacp@att.net>
    Subject: [BAC-Mail] Door seals, Sierra
    To: <bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org>
    Message-ID: <20051112041737.871C952C301@reich.xrackhosting. net>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

    We are about to install new door seals on the main doors (can't afford the
    baggage door) of our 1978 Sierra. The appropriate page, 3-52a, is missing
    from our shop manual and the one on the BAC site. Any tips from those who
    have done the install? Recommended adhesives, removing old seals and
    adhesive, techniques?



    The seal material is one continuous strip. I'm taking a wild guess that the
    baggage door seal is similar but of a different cross-sectional size.
    Otherwise we'd all just order three doors worth and throw out the excess.
    Anyone know if that is the case.



    Thanks.



    Greg MacPherson, N18996

    890 West End Avenue, #11C

    New York, NY 10025

    t 212-316-4590

    c 917-679-0565




    ------------------------------

    Message: 8
    Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 00:05:09 -0500
    From: "Brian & Bertha Foote" <bfoote@e-mart.tv>
    Subject: [BAC-Mail] Breakfast
    To: "BAC Mail" <bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org>,
    <musketeermail@yahoogroups.com>
    Message-ID: <003801c5e746$accd9b90$0300a8c0@Office>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

    Hello All Mouse Drivers

    Me and mine are planning on doing breakfast in Sanford, Maine SFM on Sunday
    around 10 am, I am wondering if anyone would like to join us.
    Drop me a line.

    BrianFrom rellihan@rellihan.com Sat Nov 12 00:34:19 2005
    Return-Path: <rellihan@rellihan.com>
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    From: "Mike Rellihan" <rellihan@rellihan.com>
    To: "'Greg MacPherson'" <gmacp@att.net>,
    <bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org>, <musketeermail@yahoogroups.com>
    Subject: RE: [BAC-Mail] Door seals, Sierra
    Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 00:43:40 -0500
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    The Sierra large baggage door seal is completely different from the main
    cabin doors. It has narrow base area, a slight perpendicular flange, and a
    P-section at the top of the flange. I don't yet have anyone lined up to
    make them for us, and the Beech $700+ is inexcusable. They were $35 just a
    few years ago. I have escalated the pricing issue to Beech procurement
    management. Their main cabin door seals are very reasonable, comparable to
    (or less than) most other aircraft brands, at $62 or so.


    -----Original Message-----
    From: bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org
    [mailto:bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org] On Behalf Of Greg MacPherson
    Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 11:18 PM
    To: bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org
    Subject: [BAC-Mail] Door seals, Sierra

    We are about to install new door seals on the main doors (can't afford the
    baggage door) of our 1978 Sierra. The appropriate page, 3-52a, is missing
    from our shop manual and the one on the BAC site. Any tips from those who
    have done the install? Recommended adhesives, removing old seals and
    adhesive, techniques?



    The seal material is one continuous strip. I'm taking a wild guess that the
    baggage door seal is similar but of a different cross-sectional size.
    Otherwise we'd all just order three doors worth and throw out the excess.
    Anyone know if that is the case.



    Thanks.



    Greg MacPherson, N18996

    890 West End Avenue, #11C

    New York, NY 10025

    t 212-316-4590

    c 917-679-0565



    ------------------------------

    Message: 9
    Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 06:28:20 -0800 (PST)
    From: James Bruce <j_w_bruce@yahoo.com>
    Subject: [BAC-Mail] Intercom
    To: bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org
    Message-ID: <20051112142820.69649.qmail@web30009.mail.mud.y ahoo.com>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

    Hello, I will be installing my Sigtronics SPA-400
    intercom soon. Do you know if it will require a form
    8130 (or something similar)to be legal?

    Thanks
    Jay



    __________________________________
    Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
    http://farechase.yahoo.com

    ------------------------------

    Message: 10
    Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 06:54:42 -0800 (PST)
    From: Ann Kirby <abk100@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: [musketeermail] RE: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for
    Sundowner
    To: mike@rellihan.com, 'Jimmie and Mary Mc' <hoca@adelphia.net>,
    MrLucky353@aol.com, bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org,
    musketeermail@yahoogroups.com
    Message-ID: <20051112145442.45297.qmail@web31509.mail.mud.y ahoo.com>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

    Right on, Mike;

    I let a guy tow mine with a golf cart and he exeeded
    the limits, but I didn't think it did any damage,
    because it steered fine on taxi. Gear retracted fine
    after take off, but on extension, the nose gear stayed
    in the well. After all kinds of dives, stalls etc.,
    each flyby showed the gear down a little more, till I
    finally got a green light, but the gear was still 90
    degrees,(jet blue). The guys at the shop recommended
    recycling the gear, but with all the trouble I had
    getting it down the first time, I chose not to. I felt
    the gear would caster on touchdown, and it did. Brake
    steering worked fine on taxi back to the shop, and
    sure enough, the steering rod was broken. The tow
    cracked it, and retraction broke it. I was lucky to
    get the gear down and avoid a prop strike, and
    teardown. The steering rod must have a good deal of
    pressure on it when it turns the gear as it is
    retracted. Tow only by hand, to avoid this pitfall.


    Dan Kirby, Sierra N9299


    --- Mike Rellihan <rellihan@rellihan.com> wrote:

    > I'm sure that those using the ride-on powered
    > equipment to move their plane
    > are aware of this. I'm just mentioning it for those
    > who are considering
    > such uses for their lawn tractor, golf cart, etc.
    >
    > You should have the travel limit markings on your
    > nose gear. Beech hasn't
    > sold the decals in years, but 1/4" wide red
    > pinstripe tape from an auto
    > parts works fine. Ideally, you get the nose gear
    > off the ground. Put one
    > stripe in the center of the upper fixed trunnion.
    > Move the gear by hand to
    > the left and right limits. Put a left and right
    > stripe on the face of the
    > main housing so it aligns with the center stripe
    > just short of the limit.
    >
    > If you hit the limit while using a ride-on power
    > unit, if you are lucky the
    > steering rod end will break at the threads (the weak
    > link). If you are
    > unlucky, the top collar casting will crack, without
    > your knowledge. This
    > can lead to the nose gear housing and fork falling
    > free of the upper housing
    > on some future liftoff. Depending on circumstances,
    > you won't know about
    > that either, for a while. This isn't speculation;
    > it has happened.
    >
    > The various powered tow bars are far less risky, as
    > you can usually feel the
    > limit when it is hit. You still should not use that
    > as the travel stop, as
    > it will bend the rod end over time. I'm not too
    > bashful to mention that I
    > one broke a rod end on my Sierra, using a golf cart;
    > zigged when I should
    > have zagged. I knew it as soon as I did it, and
    > inspected everything before
    > replacing the rod end. Murphy gets us all, at one
    > time or another.
    >
    >
    > -----Original Message-----
    > From: bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org
    > [mailto:bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org] On
    > Behalf Of Jimmie and Mary Mc
    > Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 6:45 PM
    > To: MrLucky353@aol.com; bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org
    > Subject: Re: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for Sundowner
    >
    > I use an ele three wheel Cushman with a ball hitch
    > on each end. It works
    > great. I welded a tow bar years ago to pull the
    > mouse with my truck to
    > refueling so I did not have to start the engine and
    > taxi. Jimmie
    >
    > At 10:33 PM 11/10/2005 EST, MrLucky353@aol.com
    > wrote:
    > Hi guys, anyone have any experience with using a
    > battery operated power
    > tow/tug to move their Sundowner in and out of a
    > hanger?
    > Recommendations will be appreciated.
    > Thanks.
    > Steve
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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    --------------------------------------------------------------------~->
    >
    >
    > Join BAC today and be a part of the ONLY Type Club
    > for the Musketeer series!
    >
    > www.beechaeroclub.org
    >
    >
    > Yahoo! Groups Links
    >
    > <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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    >
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    >
    >
    >
    >




    __________________________________
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    http://farechase.yahoo.com

    ------------------------------

    Message: 11
    Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 11:51:14 -0600
    From: "Mike Hagans" <mhagans@etherstuff.com>
    Subject: RE: [musketeermail] RE: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for
    Sundowner
    To: <bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org>, <musketeermail@yahoogroups.com>
    Message-ID: <20051112175146.A5D3E364176@mail.philhord.co m>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

    Is this a Retract-only issue, or does it also apply to the fixed gear mice?

    Best,

    Mike Hagans

    > -----Original Message-----
    > From: bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org
    > [mailto:bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org] On Behalf Of Ann Kirby
    > Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 8:55 AM
    > To: mike@rellihan.com; 'Jimmie and Mary Mc';
    > MrLucky353@aol.com; bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org;
    > musketeermail@yahoogroups.com
    > Subject: Re: [musketeermail] RE: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for
    > Sundowner
    >
    > Right on, Mike;
    >
    > I let a guy tow mine with a golf cart and he exeeded the
    > limits, but I didn't think it did any damage, because it
    > steered fine on taxi. Gear retracted fine after take off, but
    > on extension, the nose gear stayed in the well. After all
    > kinds of dives, stalls etc., each flyby showed the gear down
    > a little more, till I finally got a green light, but the gear
    > was still 90 degrees,(jet blue). The guys at the shop
    > recommended recycling the gear, but with all the trouble I
    > had getting it down the first time, I chose not to. I felt
    > the gear would caster on touchdown, and it did. Brake
    > steering worked fine on taxi back to the shop, and sure
    > enough, the steering rod was broken. The tow cracked it, and
    > retraction broke it. I was lucky to get the gear down and
    > avoid a prop strike, and teardown. The steering rod must have
    > a good deal of pressure on it when it turns the gear as it is
    > retracted. Tow only by hand, to avoid this pitfall.
    >
    >
    > Dan Kirby, Sierra N9299
    >
    >
    > --- Mike Rellihan <rellihan@rellihan.com> wrote:
    >
    > > I'm sure that those using the ride-on powered equipment to
    > move their
    > > plane are aware of this. I'm just mentioning it for those who are
    > > considering such uses for their lawn tractor, golf cart, etc.
    > >
    > > You should have the travel limit markings on your nose gear. Beech
    > > hasn't sold the decals in years, but 1/4" wide red
    > pinstripe tape from
    > > an auto parts works fine. Ideally, you get the nose gear off the
    > > ground. Put one stripe in the center of the upper fixed trunnion.
    > > Move the gear by hand to
    > > the left and right limits. Put a left and right stripe on
    > the face of
    > > the main housing so it aligns with the center stripe just
    > short of the
    > > limit.
    > >
    > > If you hit the limit while using a ride-on power unit, if you are
    > > lucky the steering rod end will break at the threads (the
    > weak link).
    > > If you are unlucky, the top collar casting will crack, without your
    > > knowledge. This can lead to the nose gear housing and fork falling
    > > free of the upper housing on some future liftoff. Depending on
    > > circumstances, you won't know about
    > > that either, for a while. This isn't speculation;
    > > it has happened.
    > >
    > > The various powered tow bars are far less risky, as you can usually
    > > feel the limit when it is hit. You still should not use
    > that as the
    > > travel stop, as
    > > it will bend the rod end over time. I'm not too
    > > bashful to mention that I
    > > one broke a rod end on my Sierra, using a golf cart; zigged when I
    > > should have zagged. I knew it as soon as I did it, and inspected
    > > everything before replacing the rod end. Murphy gets us
    > all, at one
    > > time or another.
    > >
    > >
    > > -----Original Message-----
    > > From: bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org
    > > [mailto:bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org] On Behalf Of Jimmie and
    > > Mary Mc
    > > Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 6:45 PM
    > > To: MrLucky353@aol.com; bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org
    > > Subject: Re: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for Sundowner
    > >
    > > I use an ele three wheel Cushman with a ball hitch on each end. It
    > > works great. I welded a tow bar years ago to pull the
    > mouse with my
    > > truck to refueling so I did not have to start the engine and
    > > taxi. Jimmie
    > >
    > > At 10:33 PM 11/10/2005 EST, MrLucky353@aol.com
    > > wrote:
    > > Hi guys, anyone have any experience with using a battery operated
    > > power tow/tug to move their Sundowner in and out of a hanger?
    > > Recommendations will be appreciated.
    > > Thanks.
    > > Steve
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
    > > --------------------~--> Get fast access to your favorite Yahoo!
    > > Groups. Make Yahoo! your home page
    > >
    > http://us.click.yahoo.com/dpRU5A/wUI...LSAA/SyTolB/TM
    > >
    > --------------------------------------------------------------
    > ------~->
    > >
    > >
    > > Join BAC today and be a part of the ONLY Type Club for the
    > Musketeer
    > > series!
    > >
    > > www.beechaeroclub.org
    > >
    > >
    > > Yahoo! Groups Links
    > >
    > > <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/musketeermail/
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    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    >
    >
    >
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    ------------------------------

    Message: 12
    Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 12:13:33 -0800 (PST)
    From: WILLIS COOKE <wrcooke@flash.net>
    Subject: RE: [musketeermail] RE: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for
    Sundowner
    To: Mike Hagans <mhagans@etherstuff.com>, bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org,
    musketeermail@yahoogroups.com
    Message-ID: <20051112201334.87890.qmail@web81205.mail.mud.y ahoo.com>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

    It applies to a greater or lesser extent to any
    airplane with a steerable nose wheel. It probably
    also applies to some airplanes with castoring nose
    wheels. The only real solution is to have well
    trained line attendents because often it is required
    to tow airplanes too far to do it by hand. It is
    probably possible to over stress a steering link when
    towing by hand.

    --- Mike Hagans <mhagans@etherstuff.com> wrote:

    > Is this a Retract-only issue, or does it also apply
    > to the fixed gear mice?
    >
    > Best,
    >
    > Mike Hagans
    >
    > > -----Original Message-----
    > > From: bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org
    > > [mailto:bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org] On
    > Behalf Of Ann Kirby
    > > Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 8:55 AM
    > > To: mike@rellihan.com; 'Jimmie and Mary Mc';
    > > MrLucky353@aol.com; bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org;
    > > musketeermail@yahoogroups.com
    > > Subject: Re: [musketeermail] RE: [BAC-Mail] Power
    > Tow/Tug for
    > > Sundowner
    > >
    > > Right on, Mike;
    > >
    > > I let a guy tow mine with a golf cart and he
    > exeeded the
    > > limits, but I didn't think it did any damage,
    > because it
    > > steered fine on taxi. Gear retracted fine after
    > take off, but
    > > on extension, the nose gear stayed in the well.
    > After all
    > > kinds of dives, stalls etc., each flyby showed the
    > gear down
    > > a little more, till I finally got a green light,
    > but the gear
    > > was still 90 degrees,(jet blue). The guys at the
    > shop
    > > recommended recycling the gear, but with all the
    > trouble I
    > > had getting it down the first time, I chose not
    > to. I felt
    > > the gear would caster on touchdown, and it did.
    > Brake
    > > steering worked fine on taxi back to the shop, and
    > sure
    > > enough, the steering rod was broken. The tow
    > cracked it, and
    > > retraction broke it. I was lucky to get the gear
    > down and
    > > avoid a prop strike, and teardown. The steering
    > rod must have
    > > a good deal of pressure on it when it turns the
    > gear as it is
    > > retracted. Tow only by hand, to avoid this
    > pitfall.
    > >
    > >
    > > Dan Kirby, Sierra N9299
    > >
    > >
    > > --- Mike Rellihan <rellihan@rellihan.com> wrote:
    > >
    > > > I'm sure that those using the ride-on powered
    > equipment to
    > > move their
    > > > plane are aware of this. I'm just mentioning it
    > for those who are
    > > > considering such uses for their lawn tractor,
    > golf cart, etc.
    > > >
    > > > You should have the travel limit markings on
    > your nose gear. Beech
    > > > hasn't sold the decals in years, but 1/4" wide
    > red
    > > pinstripe tape from
    > > > an auto parts works fine. Ideally, you get the
    > nose gear off the
    > > > ground. Put one stripe in the center of the
    > upper fixed trunnion.
    > > > Move the gear by hand to
    > > > the left and right limits. Put a left and right
    > stripe on
    > > the face of
    > > > the main housing so it aligns with the center
    > stripe just
    > > short of the
    > > > limit.
    > > >
    > > > If you hit the limit while using a ride-on power
    > unit, if you are
    > > > lucky the steering rod end will break at the
    > threads (the
    > > weak link).
    > > > If you are unlucky, the top collar casting will
    > crack, without your
    > > > knowledge. This can lead to the nose gear
    > housing and fork falling
    > > > free of the upper housing on some future
    > liftoff. Depending on
    > > > circumstances, you won't know about
    > > > that either, for a while. This isn't
    > speculation;
    > > > it has happened.
    > > >
    > > > The various powered tow bars are far less risky,
    > as you can usually
    > > > feel the limit when it is hit. You still should
    > not use
    > > that as the
    > > > travel stop, as
    > > > it will bend the rod end over time. I'm not
    > too
    > > > bashful to mention that I
    > > > one broke a rod end on my Sierra, using a golf
    > cart; zigged when I
    > > > should have zagged. I knew it as soon as I did
    > it, and inspected
    > > > everything before replacing the rod end. Murphy
    > gets us
    > > all, at one
    > > > time or another.
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > -----Original Message-----
    > > > From: bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org
    > > > [mailto:bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org] On
    > Behalf Of Jimmie and
    > > > Mary Mc
    > > > Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 6:45 PM
    > > > To: MrLucky353@aol.com;
    > bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org
    > > > Subject: Re: [BAC-Mail] Power Tow/Tug for
    > Sundowner
    > > >
    > > > I use an ele three wheel Cushman with a ball
    > hitch on each end. It
    > > > works great. I welded a tow bar years ago to
    > pull the
    > > mouse with my
    > > > truck to refueling so I did not have to start
    > the engine and
    > > > taxi. Jimmie
    > > >
    > > > At 10:33 PM 11/10/2005 EST, MrLucky353@aol.com
    > > > wrote:
    > > > Hi guys, anyone have any experience with using a
    > battery operated
    > > > power tow/tug to move their Sundowner in and out
    > of a hanger?
    > > > Recommendations will be appreciated.
    > > > Thanks.
    > > > Steve
    > > >
    > > >
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
    > > > --------------------~--> Get fast access to your
    > favorite Yahoo!
    > > > Groups. Make Yahoo! your home page
    > > >
    > >
    >
    http://us.click.yahoo.com/dpRU5A/wUI...LSAA/SyTolB/TM
    > > >
    > >
    >
    --------------------------------------------------------------
    > > ------~->
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > Join BAC today and be a part of the ONLY Type
    > Club for the
    > > Musketeer
    > > > series!
    > > >
    > > > www.beechaeroclub.org
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > musketeermail-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    > > >
    > > >
    > > >
    > > >
    > > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > __________________________________
    > > Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in
    > one click.
    > > http://farechase.yahoo.com
    > > _______________________________________________
    > > BAC-Mail mailing list
    > > BAC-Mail@beechaeroclub.org
    > >
    >
    http://www.beechaeroclub.org/mailman/listinfo/bac-mail
    >
    >
    >
    > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
    > --------------------~-->
    === message truncated ===


    ------------------------------

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    End of BAC-Mail Digest, Vol 5, Issue 3
    **************************************



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  2. #2

    BAC-Mail Digest, Vol 5, Issue 3

    Great write-up, Rick. Thanks for participating so thoroughly!

    -----Original Message-----
    From: bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org
    [mailto:bac-mail-bounces@beechaeroclub.org] On Behalf Of Rick Spann
    Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 7:07 PM
    To: bac-mail@beechaeroclub.org
    Subject: [BAC-Mail] RE: BAC-Mail Digest, Vol 5, Issue 3

    Greg MacPherson,

    I hope that I am sending this correctly. As a new member I enjoy reading
    what other people are doing to and running into with their aircraft.

    I used Vantage plane plastics rubber door seals for replacement of all three
    doors of my Sierra. The part number is kx-2123bt and cost about $2.00 a
    foot. At 40 lineal feet with the discount from plane plastics the total for
    material was 86.89 with shipping to the west coast. The material is 3/4"
    quarter round and hollow. It comes with a peal off back and I didn't
    require any adhesives. I installed the material in one direction on the
    front doors and reversed the material on the baggage door. It took about 2
    weeks to settle down, but my doors all close nicely and I have no leaks.
    When I started the installation there were 2 different kinds of seals on the
    doors, and a whole lot of adhesive. The first thing I did was to remove the
    hold open at the bottom of the front doors. This allowed the door to open
    180 degrees and allowed me to stand in front of the wing to do the work. I
    was afraid to use any solvent on the door frames, whick appeared to be
    fiberglass. So I used a palm sander, Makita, and 3M's fast cut sandpaper,
    180 grit. I took my time and was careful not to damage the fiberglass. It
    took about 2 hours per door to get all the adhesive off. Since I was
    redoing the interior I painted the edge of the doors so that the exposed
    edges would match the new interior. I cut several 1 inch sections of the
    door seal and applied them (after the paint had dried) to various parts of
    each door to see what was the best possible position for the new seal. I
    also noticed that the bottom of the doors are pitched to the front of the
    aircraft, and when I removed the old seals the bottom seals were full of
    water. When I installed the new seals I positioned the butt joint at the
    bottom of the door as close to the front of the aircraft as possible. That
    way if any water did get into the seal it would drain out.

    I did have one problem with the pilot side door. The small access window
    became stuck due to the warpage of the door because of the new seals. I
    forced the window open and cracked the glass. If you absolutely cannot wait
    the 2 weaks for the new seals to settle down, I recommend that you do the
    work with the window open, mark the area where the window is binding and
    carefully remove some of the material with a dremel tool.

    As I said before, the seals took about to weaks to compress and settledown.
    The material also is FAA approved. I do have about 2 feet for material left
    over and will send it or part of it to you. Good luck and I hope this helps
    and makes it to you.

    Rick Spann N9363S
    1975 Sierra


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