>The nosewheel bearing is easy. I had to replace the nosewheel bearings at
>the last annual. The parts cost about $125 and it took me about 15 minutes
>additional time (if that) to tap out the old races and press in the new
>ones in addition to packing the bearings. It took me longer to drive to
>the bearing store than to replace them. There are two bearing races that
>fit the roller bearings, and the ones that were listed in the parts book
>were incorrect. Mine used a Timken 13836. The parts book had 13830. The
>number is on the inside of the race, so you need to take the old one out
>to see the number.

Posting on an open forum that you have violated the FARs by not having or
following the manufacturer's current maintenance instructions (see FAR
43.13 "Performance Rules"), is probably not a great idea. <Grin>

One does NOT tap the bearing races out of the wheel halves, nor press them
out with hydraulic or arbor press.

The factory method is to use heat, as described in the Cleveland Wheel and
Brake maintenance manual. It works very well.

http://www.parker.com/ag/wbd/cleveland/pdf/maincov.pdf

Also the correct wheel bearings are Cleveland part numbers, because of the
PMA on them, the Timken bearing from the local auto parts store is not an
approved part. A distributor such as Falcon Crest 888-451-7290, Aviall, or
API can supply you with the actual Cleveland PMA approved bearings (in
orange and black Timken boxes).

The wrong grease can allow the bearings to rust very quickly. Also a bad
seal can allow water in. you might want to compare your wheel seals and
bearings to the ones listed in the Illustrated Parts Catalog.

http://www.parker.com/ag/wbd/cleveland/pdf/Wbcov.pdf

Parker-Hannifin has changed the recommended grease since the ancient Beech
manuals were written. I'd use the grease suggested in the current
Cleveland manual. Its a little hard to come by on a Weekend at the
airport, but with $125 in bearings at risk, its worth the cost to get a
tube shipped in.

Bob Steward, A&P IA
Birmingham, AL



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