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Thread: Rudder Control Horn

  1. #1
    Preparing for Take-off Preparing for Take-off
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Central Indiana
    Posts
    9

    Rudder Control Horn

    The rudder on my A23A has the magnesium control horn mounted at the
    base for control cable attachment. Years of lubrication residue
    attracting dirt that, in turn, holds moisture, has created a classic
    case of magnesium corrosion around the attachemnt bushings. I
    understand this is a common and often overlooked malady of the
    Musketeer. I have procured a new control horn but now realize that the
    previous taper bolt mounting hole must be replicated in the new,
    undrilled, horn. Looking for suggestions as to how this has been done
    in the past. I'm sure the intial installation involved drilling two
    new parts (rudder post and horn) at the same time. How do you locate
    the old post hole to the new horn? Are there taper bolt reamers or
    drill bits? Does one go oversize with tne new taper bolt (not listed
    as an option in the IPC)?
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Bob Hansen
    N2314W

  2. #2
    I had to replace my rudder control horn when I did the repairs to my plane. It was broken when they recovered the plane from the scene of the accident. The new horn is not drilled to the rudder shaft. I used careful measurements and drilled starter holes. I then used the proper taper reamer to finish the job. I can't remember the number of the taper reamer. The next tiime I get to the airport I'll bring back the reamer. You may borrow it if you like. I think it was a B&S #2 but it's been a long time.

    Mike Hippensteel A&P
    N2114W

  3. #3

    Rudder Control Horn

    >I have procured a new control horn but now realize that the previous taper
    >bolt mounting hole must be replicated in the new, undrilled,
    >horn. Looking for suggestions as to how this has been done in the past.

    Any competent machinist ought to be able to help you re-drill. This is an
    OFF-THE-PLANE operation, so take the rudder assembly off rather than risk
    ruining it in the attempt to hand drill it in place.

    >How do you locate the old post hole to the new horn?

    The hole is drilled and then reamed to size. One would measure the hole
    location on the rudder, and then drill a pilot hole in the new control horn
    to match the alignment of the hole in the rudder. Remember the machinist I
    suggested? He'll be able to do that.

    >Are there taper bolt reamers or drill bits?

    Taper reamers after the hole is drilled.

    >Does one go oversize with tne new taper bolt (not listed as an option in
    >the IPC)?

    Let us hope that you have a skilled machinist involved, and then you won't
    have to worry about over-size holes or bolts that will fit OS holes.

    The key is getting the control horn drilled to match the CENTERS of the
    existing holes, then when you ream the control horn, you will have the
    holes exactly lined up. The last phase of the project is to test the size
    of the control horn holes to the torque tube holes, and make the final
    reamer turn in the assembled parts to wipe the surface of the existing
    holes in the rudder and provide a smooth transition from the control horn
    to the rudder and then back to the control horn on the opposite
    side. Getting the control horn hole placed wrong at the start is the
    source of all your future problems. Measure several times, drill once.

    Bob Steward, A&P IA
    Birmingham, AL

  4. #4

    Rudder Control Horn

    We replaced ours a couple of years ago and the taper bolt was a
    delicate issue. Be very careful not to over drill with a your taper
    drill - otherwise you will have to find a larger bolt. Other than
    that it is not too big a deal. Mine had a hairline crack in it
    requiring replacement.

    Shelby Smith
    B23 N4004T

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