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Thread: '63 Mouse

  1. #1

    '63 Mouse

    I looked at a '63 Mouse this weekend. It's pretty close to what I'm
    looking for. It does need a new headliner, a very small , maybe half
    inch, crack is forming at the top of the windshield. It also does not
    have pitot heat.

    Questions are:

    Have much money should I budget for a to headliner and how big a job is
    replacing it?

    Is it a big deal to ad a heated pitot?

    Can the windshield be fixed?

    Thanks,

    Chris Burkhardt

  2. #2
    I can offer some insight into the pitot tube question, as I went through this a few years ago. The pitot tube itself will cost around $1000. However, you can order a complete kit from RAPID (Part No. 23-4002 P) for around $500, which includes the pitot tube, mounting mast, switch, wiring, fittings etc. This is typical RAPID Lack of Logic, but it sometimes works to our benefit. The kit is a special order, and is not refundable.

    If the wiring is not in place to the end of the left wing, you will end up having to split the wing to run the wires properly, and then re-rivet the trailing edges. The wire must go through grommets in the ribs to be safe, and there are virtually no inspection holes to work with. You do not want to run an unsupported wire, since it could fray, and it runs past the fuel tank. It is not a pleasant job, but it can be done. You can remove the left wing tip, and check to see if the wiring was put in. Odds are it was not.

  3. #3

    '63 Mouse

    I added heated pitot to my 1965 A23. It involved finding the wire (installed by factory) in bundle under dash and in wing through the wing tip. Removing the wing tip, making an appropriate hole through the wing skin, purchasing a mounting pylon and purchasing a pitot tube. When I bought mine in 1994 the pylon was about $150 and the pitot tube about the same price. The ones that I have seen advertised lately are about $1,000. I got my pylon from WAG Aero, but I don't know if they still carry them. Also, you will need a switch/circuit breaker and it will be installed on the panel. It requires sheet metal and electrical work which needs to be done by an A&P or at least under supervision. Since this is on the optional equipment list, it may not need a 337 and the blessing of an AI. It took me about 8 to 10 hours, but I am slow.
    Willis

  4. #4

    '63 Mouse

    The windshield can be fixed, it can be stop drilled and have a piece of Plexiglas rod glued into the hole. Then consider why the crack formed and slightly loosen the screw nearby that is securing the windshield.

    As far a pitot heat, the other post is right on, just do it like Beech would have done and you only need a log entry, and an A&P to make it legal. Make up a new fancy system for the heat and you face a delay with field approval from the FAA.

    Joe

  5. #5

    '63 Mouse

    The interior leaks may be due to bad window seals. I recently pulled all
    my cabin windows and found many with sections that I could slide a putty
    knife through... no seal at all. This is on my '78 Sundowner.
    Press on the window from outside and see if there is any movement..
    that's the only way I can think of to check on the seal.
    My job took about 2 full 8 hour days. Removing interior trim took about
    2 hours, breaking old sealant and removing windows, scraping all residue
    from the frames- about a 6-8 hours (some were still sealed damn tight in
    places).
    I resealed the windows with fuel tank sealant.
    When you re-seat the windows with soft sealant use an expandable shower
    curtain rod to press opposing windows tight into their frames. Please be
    sure to get some of these rods.... it's the only way to get a good seal!



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