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Thread: Leaking fuel selector valve 1968 a23-24

  1. #1

    Leaking fuel selector valve 1968 a23-24

    Hi I went out to the plane and found a fuel odor and saw blue staining
    underneath the fore belly of my plane ( below the fuel selector
    assembly) Upon removing seats and carpet which I was planning to redo
    anyway I found that the fuel selector is leaking from what appears to
    be the bottom at a significant rate ( 1 drop every 5 seconds) I shut
    the valve off and it appears to have stopped .I plan on having my a/p
    remove the valve so it can hopefully be overhauled .I saw on this site
    or elsewhere that there is a kit available for it Has any one any first
    hand knowledege as to its repair . I plan on browsing the BAC site for
    more info but suspect that the useual experts here will be more than
    kind to offer the much appreciated assitance as always . thanks Chas

  2. #2

    Leaking fuel selector valve 1968 a23-24

    There have been at least 2 different valves used in the Musketeer
    series. Step one is to identify the manufacturer of the valve you have so
    that you can get the right parts (if any are available).

    Bob Steward, A&P IA
    Birmingham, AL
    Last edited by Clinderman; 02-13-2017 at 11:12 AM.

  3. #3
    No one can fix your valve and call it an 'overhaul' or 'rebuild', unless it is the original manufacturer; or a repair station that has been approved by the FAA to do it. The big problem is the absence of available approved data for the valve. All we can do is a 'repair', during which we clean and inspect the valve for any obvious discrepancies, and reassemble it using the correct new o-rings (no other new parts are available). Note that Beech does not have any drawings of the valve assembly; they purchased it as a unit from their suppliers, and only serviced the valve via replacement.

    This may be a fine point, but you should make sure that your technician refers to a valve 'repair' in your logbook. If the terms 'overhauled' or 'rebuilt' are written in, you could be expected to have parts approval paperwork on file (by some future A&P-IA or purchaser).

    Fortunately, in the case of the Gerdes aluminum valve (and as opposed to the old Imperial brass valve), re-sealing the valve will normally hold up for another 25-30 years if it is properly done (polished shaft, silicone lube, etc.). This also assumes that the valve is properly disassembled so nothing is damaged or lost (such as the small detent spring and ball).

    There is a complete instruction document available for download on BAC. There are additional photos in the Photo Gallery. In the BAC Classifieds, you will find an ad for an O-ring kit for the valve. And finally, if your technician is afraid to open it up, you can mail it to me for repair. I would charge you $150 and shipping to clean up and repair your valve (assuming it is repairable). It would be retired with a letter documenting the repair for you. Mike at rellihan dot com.

  4. #4
    Hello Chas,

    Just thought I'd let you know what I experienced with my selector valve last August. I also have a Super that I purcahsed last May and found a minor leak, but wanted to repair it as I had the center floor pan section out to repair a small crack in the flap and trim housing.

    I purchased the O-ring kit from Mike (thanks a million Mike!) and started with the removal of the valve. I drained the tanks as much as I had fuel cans, but still had about ten gallons in each tank. The valve isn't the easiest to remove while holding a small plastic pan underneath to catch fuel. I used some vinyl caps to plug the lines QUICK while fuel sprayed all over but it worked pretty well. Once I had the Gerdes valve in hand I needed to work fast as the caps didn't seal THAT well on the fuel lines.

    Honestly, the valve was easy to repair and is a simple unit, you just need some snap ring pliars, internal and external. You must watch out for the small steel detent ball. Mine was leaking at the large O-ring that seals the large lower cap in the housing. Mike gives you all the rings required and even supplies some silicone lube required for proper assembly. I remember that it took me no longer than 15 minutes to repair the valve, but I used to do that kind of work and everything else inside the valve was in perfect shape.... very simple job! Hopefully your only problem will be a dried out leaky O-ring such as mine. Getting the valve back in the plane without leaking gas everywhere was the FUN part! You do need to be careful not to overtighten the compression fittings at the valve. Also helps to have the proper line wrenches so you don't flatten the fittings on the fuel lines using an open end wrench. It's not too tough of a job with the gas drained, so don't worry.

    The only thing I would do differently is to drain pretty much ALL the gas out of the plane before I started, sure would have made things easier!.... just needed more gas cans. All in all I think it took me about 2 hours to do the job, but I already had the center plate out. Most of the time was spent trying to figure out how not to leak gas everywhere. Luckily, I live in a private airpark and have four IA's that are neighbors and good friends and trust my mechanical abilities. Sure helps with the mecahnical bills!


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