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Thread: firewall removal and paint

  1. #1

    firewall removal and paint

    To all who may know,
    I have removed the engine from my Super III to take care of some surface rust on motor mount and want also to clean remove surface rust and paint fire wall as it seems to be steel and not stainless like most other planes.
    Is there a special paint IE fire retardant that should be used or will zinc chromate be all right? Talk to my IA and he is not sure he is looking but in the mean time I thought someone out there many have the answer.
    Also there is old gray putty sealer between the fire wall and fuselage
    that is opened after removing motor mount as I live in Seattle and commute to work in the plane it is important not to leak in the rain.
    What kind of sealer would work beast to reseal this?
    Thank you,
    Jim
    Last edited by Clinderman; 10-15-2010 at 03:13 AM. Reason: correct typos

  2. #2
    Hi, Jim.. Since no one else has chimed in, I'll give my opinion.

    The most fire-resistant primer I have found is LPS-brand Cold Galvanize spray paint. You can use it on a lawn mower muffler that glows cherry red in the dark, without it burning off. Some Ace Hardware stores carry it, but not all. Lowes and the like won't have it. If you have trouble finding it, try some local commercial supply stores. If they have an LPS display rack, they should have it. It will have a dull gray finish. You could probably over-top it with a heat resistant paint if you wish. I would not use a true high-heat paint that requires curing, as you won't be able to cure it.

    You should use fire-resistive caulk for the firewall seal, and to seal any unused openings in the firewall. You can order the caulk from Aircraft Spruce:
    3M FIRE BARRIER 2000+ 10.3 OZ 05-00949 $18.95

    If you find any spots where someone has installed a rubber grommet with some new wiring job, you should consider removing the grommet, install 'Caterpillar' anti-chafe strip in its place, and then caulk up the Caterpillar and wire bundle with the special caulk.
    From Aircraft Spruce:
    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...mmetedging.php

    The planes left the factory with bulkhead connectors and eyeball grommets, but many subsequent firewall penetrations were not properly prepared. A rubber grommet lasts something like four seconds in an oil or gasoline flame.

  3. #3
    I agree with Mike on sealing the firewall. Another paint that wears well is rustolium appliance epoxy paint. I used this on my firewall and wheels three years ago. It still appears like new and dirt / grime wipes off easly. It comes in spray cans but the finished product will look like a spray rig was used.

  4. #4

    getting the firewall removed

    Following the wise counsel of several here, I'm planning to remove the motor mount and the firewall from my A23-24 while the engine is off being rebuilt. I have a (hopefully small) problem.

    The motormount attaches to the frame at the firewall with five bolts. Except for the top-center bolt, each of these bolts has a screw/nut going through the mount-plate (the motor-mount "flange-surface" touching the firewall). The four locations for these all fall on a U-channel, which I'm guessing is a firewall stiffener. Unfortunately they're not just studs, they are machine screws with heads apparently on the other side of the firewall making them difficult to get to. Can the screw-head be accessed from the inside? Or do I remove the u-channel (a pile of rivets) with the motormount? Or something else entirely? I have photos which I can upload if my description is as bad as i think it sounds...

    Best,

    Mike Hagans

  5. #5
    Mike if you are speaking of the small screws that are near the main motor mount bolts that hold it to the fire wall, when the main bolts are removed, the small ones keep the mount attached to the firewall. When the firewall is pulled forward, the screws can be reached easily.

  6. #6
    Thanks Bob - those are the ones. I should have thought of that! Really appreciate the reply - gonna go remove the firerwall now.

    Best,

    Mike

  7. #7
    Certainly an old post, but does anyone know where we can access firewall putty? They call it permagum and comes in a 80 foot roll which is a pinch excessive for what we need. Thanks

  8. #8
    The paragum sealer is just strip caulking. I used firewall 2000 available from AC spruce. Unlike the paragum it is heat rated. It can be used to fill any holes in the firewall as well. It comes in a tube like window sealer. What ever you use, tighten then torque the 5 motor mount to fire wall bolts. Let everything sit for a few days to shrink or expand-mostly shrink and then re torque the bolts. The top bolt is shorter than the other four. Ensure the top bolt extends through the nyloc nut-plate with enough threads. I bought an additional bolt of sufficient length to obtain the proper 1 1/2 threads showing.

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