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Thread: Brake Caliper

  1. #1

    Brake Caliper

    Hi:

    My right brake was dragging slightly while taxiing. I checked the calliper and the piston appears to sticking. The left one is fine and I can push the piston in with my fingers. Should I try using a "C" Clamp to try to push the piston in or should I remove the piston and clean it and the cylinder? If possible I would like to free it up without taking the piston out to avoid having to bleed the system.

    Don

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  2. #2

    Brake Caliper

    When you compress the piston into the caliper on an old caliper, you are pushing an old heat-hardened o-ring into an area contaminated with usage debris and often corrosion pitting; it almost guarantees a seepage leak, at best. Assuming an unrepaired caliper, this compression gets done every time the brake disk pads are replaced. Eventually the time comes when the piston leak begins. A sticking brake piston is an early warning sign that the caliper needs repair due to contamination and corrosion. If you don't fix it in time, at the very least you'll be dealing with an unrepairable caliper, and will face the ridiculous cost of a new caliper (if you can find the right one).

    Disassemble the caliper, clean and polish the piston and bore, and reassemble with o-ring lube and new o-rings. Then pressure bleed it from the bottom up, and have someone gently pump the pilot and co-pilot pedal a few times, to dislodge any small bubbles, once fluid is getting to the master cylinder. A top-quality, large capacity, pistol-grip hand-pump oil can works fine for bleeding.

    If I were you, I would do both sides, unless there is a logged record of a recent repair on the other side. Both sides have experienced the same environmental and usage conditions. The cost of this very minor repair will pale in significance to the probable side effects of a locked brake during roll-out.

    ----- Original Message -----
    From: Janet and Don Bateman
    To: musketeermail@yahoogroups.com
    Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 9:23 PM
    Subject: [musketeermail] Brake Caliper


    Hi:

    My right brake was dragging slightly while taxiing. I checked the caliper and the piston appears to sticking. The left one is fine and I can push the piston in with my fingers. Should I try using a "C" Clamp to try to push the piston in or should I remove the piston and clean it and the cylinder? If possible I would like to free it up without taking the piston out to avoid having to bleed the system.

    Don

    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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  3. #3

    Brake Caliper

    Wes:

    I have Cleveland brakes. I popped out the pistons and cleaned them. The O-rings looked fine but I replaced them anyway ($0.82 each), added new brake fluid MIL-C-5606G and bleed them. Everything is fine now. Thanks for the advice.

    Don
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: Wes Knettle
    To: musketeermail@yahoogroups.com
    Cc: batejd@porchlight.ca
    Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 12:47 PM
    Subject: [musketeermail] Re: Brake Caliper


    You didn't say if you had stock brakes or Clevelands. If I may add a
    little to Mike's post. The piston and O'ring are already out in the
    pitted and corroded area of the caliper's bore. It is the inner are that
    is the more clean and smooth area. When a brake piston is extended to
    the point where it sticks or leaks even when the pad is worn this
    usually indicates the disc is getting too thin and should be replaced as
    well as the pads and the O'ring. One other cause for the piston to
    remain extended and dragging is a deteriorated hose inner liner that is
    trapping the fluid at the piston. A quick simple check for this is to
    crack the hose's lower fitting loose and push in the piston with your
    finger. If it now slides easily you will need a new hose.

    Wes K
    IA in Wisconsin


    >
    >



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