I have B33ch 23 M-217. Pulling the spar cover on the bottom of the fuselage gives great access to the most stressed part of the carry through structure of the spar. Found out I have 218's part..at least that is what was chalked on it. There is an AD I think to inspect these bolts.

The gasculator is simple. Remove the safety wire from the nut on the bottom. That is what holds the top, bolted to the airplane, the cylinder wall, and bottom plate together. There are O'rings at the top and bottom of the cylinder. There is a round screen at the top and cylindrical one inside the big cylinder.

Carefully inspect the O'rings and make sure to get them seated in their grooves before tightening the nut on reassembly. The panel around the gasculator on mine also covers the electric fuel pump. Check fittings for blue stains.

Pulling the left sidewall panel on mine was a bear. It is one piece from the back of the baggage compartment to infront of the pilot's feet. Had to work it out the baggage door to get it out from under the instrument panel and then curved it around and took it out the cockpit door because the rest of it was too tall to go out the baggage door. Piece of cake going back in with three people(in the right spots).

I had to change a sump valve, I took a lot of pictures, and that was a pain getting the old shellacked cork gasket loose. Eye dropper with shellac thinner and a dremel tool with thin saw blade and a sharp putty knife worked in-between the fuselage side wall and the tank and in front of the spar behind the fuel sender. Softened a little with the thinner. Notched the cork (very carefully) with the dremel, then worked the putty knife around the edges to slowly free it. Put it all back with Pro Peal and no gaskets.

Pulling the lower cowl is a bear but on annual you are supposed to clean the engine and inspect all those little oil return tubes, throttle, mixture, and carb heat, shimmy damper, and scat tubes, look for chaffing etc. I found wires chaffing on primer lines, Carb heat cable housing had never been cut back far enough to allow full carb heat, throttle cable had all three washers outside the cable, missing shim in the nosegear steering damper clevis, and a broken wire holding the heat shield behind the muffler. I also found two broken tangs on the spinner cover bulkhead while pulling the prop. No regrets. Now I get a 100 rpm drop on carbheat instead of barely any.

Rayford
N2377L SloWhite

PS Had to change a cylinder because of broken compression ring. I now have a set of 1/2 and 3/8 internal wrenching Lycoming cylinder wrenches that I'll rent out.

PPS the O'ring for the auto valve sump drain was a size -19, Parts manual said 18 and BAC archive said 20. I've got a package of 18's and a package of 20's that I don't know what to do with. If anyone wants a -19 I have at least 9 of those left, too.